It is possible Jean-Claude Mas has the greatest range of value-for-money wines in the world. I certainly scratch my head trying to think of someone who might beat him. They’re French wines, but inspired by the New World. Arrogant Frog is his best-known brand. You know the label: an insect-gobbling amphibian impersonating a biped, with a jaunty beret, cravat, walking-stick and a glass of wine in one flipper.