Cellar Talk Wines

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Best sparkling

Jansz Premium Vintage Cuvee, Tasmania 2007 $42 The bright, light-mid yellow colour introduces a fine bouquet of citrus fruits and honey, with toasted-nut and bread aromas. It’s complex and subtle, refined and instantly appealing. The palate is delicate and beautifully proportioned, with finesse and harmony.

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Best import

Palliser Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Martinborough 2012 $24  An excellent example of the grape, with less pungency but more ripe, tropical aromas than the Marlborough benchmark. The palate is soft, generous and ripe, with smooth texture and length, intensity and balance. Not sweet, tart nor shrill,

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Top Aussie red

Paracombe Shiraz, Adelaide Hills 2009 $21  This has a touch of elegance, which is not common among ’09 South Australian shirazes. Deep red-purple colour; menthol, spice and mint aromas, including pepper and clove. Full-bodied, fleshy, rich and smooth with very good balance. Drinking well now,

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Top Aussie white

Pressing Matters R9 Riesling, Tasmania 2012 $29  This is a blinder of a riesling, with a powerful fragrance of kaffir lime leaf and great intensity in the mouth allied with great delicacy. It has 9 grams per litre of sweetness, but barely tastes off-dry, thanks

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Wine of the week

DogRock Single Vineyard Shiraz, Pyrenees 2011 $25 DogRock wines are grown and made by Allen Hart, who used to be Southcorp’s research winemaker at Seppelt’s Great Western winery. This is an elegant, beautiful, medium bodied shiraz which is lively and invigorating, intense and penetrating in

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Indulge yourself

Mount Langi Ghiran Vineyards Langi Shiraz, Grampians 2010 $100 This wine, from a top vintage and a great vineyard, is a masterpiece of elegance. The colour is not dark but beautifully hued, the aromas are fragrantly spicy and peppery, herbal and lightly stemmy, with violet

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Best sweet wine

Wirra Wirra Mrs Wigley Moscato, McLaren Vale 2012 $18.50 / 500ml  Moscatos are everywhere today but few as good as this. The bright, light rose-pink colour is fresh and inviting, as is the fragrant muscat fruit aroma. It’s quite sweet and has a little effervescence.

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Best import

Marc Bredif Vouvray Brut NV, Loire Valley $29  This very dry sparkling chenin blanc has been aged three years on its lees and includes 10 per cent reserve wine. It’s a subtle, restrained style with gentle apple and pear-like aromas and a little creaminess from

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Top Aussie red

Kaesler Stonehorse Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2010 $25 A big, lush, almost decadent, typical Kaesler red with ultra-ripe blackberry aromas, a floral note and a lick of toasty oak. It’s full bodied and smooth, loaded with espresso coffee, blackberry and anise flavours. Alcohol warmth is in

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Top Aussie white

Scorpo Estate Grown Pinot Gris, Mornington Peninsula 2011 $35 Barrel fermentation, smoky sulfides and some time in bottle result in a complex wine that is much more than simple fruit. It’s soft and round with a hint of sweetness that’s well balanced, and subtle flavours