Savaterre Chardonnay 2015, Beechworth, AUD $65
This is, without a doubt, a compelling wine. It has a beguiling richness, and although there are notes of pineapple and nougat, there is also underlying grapefruit and lemon. The way these two opposing elements are entwined is nothing short of impressive. There is a seamless integration of the elements. Though I must stress, it is not an overly fruity wine. In fact, its presentation is decidedly savoury with inherent oatmeal characters. And then there is the acidity, which is more like a supporting basket than a core. And the texture? Perfect.
It is a serious wine for purposeful drinking. It needs chilling, but not too much. Decanting? Most definitely. Time for quiet appreciation? A must. (Screwcap)
Score: 95 ★★★★★
Ageing: 2017 to 2023
Food: Snapper pie
Stockists: Savaterre Wines; Dan Murphy’s stores (AU)