Three examples of regional pinot noir were in part a reflection of regional and sub-regional style, with the line slightly blurred by winemaker and even vineyard influence.
The Martinborough Vineyard Marie Zelie Reserve 2013 (NZD $225 – 98 points) is the country’s most expensive pinot noir according to my records. While it does have dark-fleshed plum flavour, which I find is a Martinborough marker, the wine clearly shows old vine-derived concentration and complexity. It’s a superb pinot noir that’s dramatically better than the regular label.
Misha’s Vineyard The High Note Pinot Noir 2012 (NZD $44.95 – 95 points) reflects the typical dense, ripe flavours and rather flat texture that I associate with the Bendigo sub-region of Central Otago. I like this wine considerably more than the 2011 tasted alongside. Winemaker, Ollie Masters, has nailed the sweet fruit and fine tannin balance. Good now but promises to get even better.
The youngster of the trio, Greystone Pinot Noir 2015 (NZD $38 – 93 points) is showing its youth with oak influence still a little prominent, although I am confident that it will marry into fruit flavour with time. Very accessible and appealing now.