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Pierro LTC vertical tasting

Pierro’s LTC is one of Margaret River’s stand-by ‘sem-sav’ blends. The LTC could stand for Les Trois Cuvees, meaning semillon, sauvignon blanc and a minor component of chardonnay, or it could stand for “a little touch of chardonnay”. Take your pick.

I’ve been tasting this wine yearly for many years but until recently, never had the opportunity of a mini-vertical. Owner Mike Peterkin sent over a case containing the last 12 releases, from 2002 to 2013.

I’d always thought this was one of the more savoury examples of Margaret River’s staple white blend, and so it proved. Not an overtly fruity wine, it would be the last to express pungent sauvignon blanc varietal fruit. Like his sister-in-law Vanya Cullen at Cullen Wines, Peterkin eschews the grapiness others seek, instead looking for a savouriness that goes better with food. And the wine is always dry.

I’m right with him there. I find many of the region’s more pungent ‘snow-pea’ examples have a phenolic greenness that sticks in the throat, and prevents me enjoying drinking them. Not so Pierro.

The wines do vary according to the seasons, of course, and my ratings and descriptions fluctuate according to my liking of them. The 2013 (tasting) is one of the best, with lemon and pepper notes, also the 2011 (lemon-grass – previous tasting) and 2009 (lemon butter), while the 2006 (12.5%) and 2007 (14.5%) were two whole percentage points different in alcohol.

The 2004 was my favourite, still fresh and vital at 10 years, and looking set for quite a few more. With bright meadow-hay and straw aromas, and no hint of greener characters, it’s a pure, seamless, refined wine on the palate, shot through with delicious buttery, lemony mature flavours and a winning texture.

Indeed, all 12 wines were holding well and none showed any sign of tiredness, which is another feature of the Pierro style. Bravo, Dr Peterkin. 

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