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Sigalas Vinsanto, Santorini, Greece 2004 $66 / 500ml Value: excellent

This is a rare, distinguished wine, with a challenging level of volatility from long wood aging. Deep amber-tawny colour with an oily, concentrated texture; very complex aged bouquet includes dusty, smoky, resin and toffee notes, oxidative like an old sherry or Spanish PX, but unfortified. Sweet, unctuous, delicious. A meditation wine. Now to five years. 9 per cent alcohol. 95/100 – Huon’s Wine 360

Food: dried fruits and nuts

Stockists: Psarakos Liquor and Fruit Market, Melbourne; Marrickville Liquor and Mr Liquor stores, Sydney

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