Deja-vu sake

Japanese sake might be in decline in its homeland, but it’s enjoying rising popularity in Australia. Three years ago the Black Market Sake Company opened up in Sydney, importing only sake. Now we have a second dedicated importer, Deja-Vu Sake Company. It’s run by long-time Sydney wine wholesaler Andrew Cameron, a part-owner of Deja-Vu Wine Co, and his Japanese wife Yukino Ochiai. The business is thriving.

After operating for just two years, it already sells to 200 restaurants around Australia. Not all are Japanese: three-quarters are non-Japanese. A number of wine shops also stock their sakes (see list).

For simplicity’s sake, Deja-Vu deals with just five breweries. These are distributed across Japan’s main island, Honshu. All are family owned, each in a different prefecture, offering a well-differentiated range of sakes.

Sake is normally between 15.5 and 16.5% alcohol, which means it’s a little stronger than a heavy Barossa shiraz, but not as strong as port. It’s normally served chilled but can also be served at room temperature or warmed up to blood temperature. It goes ideally with Japanese food but the fact that it’s sold in so many non-Japanese eateries emphasizes its compatibility with many food types.

Usually, the more expensive the sake, the more refinement the rice has undergone. A Junmai Daiginjo, for example, is made from rice polished so that no more than 50% of the original grain remains. A Junmai Ginjo will be at least 40 per cent polished (with 60 per cent of the grain remaining). Hence, the former will always be more expensive than the latter in a given brewery.

Cameron explains that to polish a grain of rice to 50 per cent necessitates 100 hours of polishing, which takes five days. It’s all done by machine, but the loss of yield means the production cost is much higher.

At 55 per cent polishing and above, little remains except the kernel of pure starch. In sake made from rice that’s been only 30 per cent polished (called Honjozo), more of the aroma and flavour is contributed by the outer layers of the grain, and there is less finesse.

Deja-Vu market their sake through agents in South Australia, Western Australia and Tasmania, as well as Deja-Vu Wine Co in NSW. All of their sakes are screwcapped, ensuring freshness and consistency.

Sake breweries

The five breweries are:

Amanoto

In the northern Akita prefecture, between Tokyo and Osaka. All of their rice is grown within 5km of this very small brewery. Their Junmai Daiginjo 35 ($109/720ml) is superbly delicate and fragrant. It’s the most highly refined sake I’ve tasted: the grains are milled to just 35% of their original size. Their Junkara Junmai Ginjo ($46/720ml) is very dry (junkara means dry) and slightly alcohol-hot, with slight bitterness, and is said to go well with tempura, pork, and braised chicken with mushrooms.

Houraisen

In Aichi prefecture, central Honshu. A high-altitude brewery, at 500 metres above sea-level, using some of the softest, low-mineral water in Japan, said to contribute softness to their sakes. They use 60-80 varieties of rice. Their Bi Junmai Daiginjo ($95/720ml) is very refined and fragrant; their Beshi Tokubetsu Junmai ($50/720ml) is mushroomy and floral and dry, and is said to be very adaptable with food.

Yoshinogawa

In Niigata prefecture. Established in 1548, it’s the fifth-oldest sake brewery in Japan, run by a 19th generation owner. Their style is dry and crisp. The Gensen Karakuchi Honjozo ($34/720ml) is a drier style with lots of banana and passionfruit aromas. Its 300ml single-serve size is popular; it’s also often served by the glass. The Daiginjo ($106/720ml) is, unusually, kept in tanks for three years at minus-5 degrees before bottling. It’s very powerful, with a banana note and a long, dry finish. This brewery also makes a yuzu (native citrus) flavoured sake, Ginjo Yuzushu ($50/500ml). It’s intensely lemony and low alcohol – 7% compared to most sakes’ 16%. There’s also a sweet sake to serve with fruit salad and ice-cream or cheese: Gensen Umeshu ($46/720ml). This sake has been infused with Ume (an apricot-like Asian fruit) and the aromas remind of marzipan, plum and almond. It’s served on the rocks.

Dewazakura

In the Yamagata prefecture. Known for fragrant sakes, thanks to the use of special yeasts and low-temperature fermentation. Their Seijo Karakuchi Futsushu ($40/720ml) is a good everyday sake, delicate, with a crisp, clean finish. Cameron calls this the Hunter semillon of sake. Their Junmai Daiginjo Dewa Sanson ($58/720ml) is said to even match Kobe beef, and is served in US steak houses. I’m not sure I agree, but tempura fish: yes!

Their Daiginjo Yamada Nishiki 48 ($74/720ml) is floral, less fruity, with a fennel-seed note, fuller body and a chalky texture that calls for food, such as grilled salmon.

This brewery has a 10 year-old sake, Tokubetsu Junmai Karesansui 10 Years ($100/720ml) which is light yellow coloured with a nutty, sherry-like bouquet and flavours of banana, almond-meal and marzipan. Its big flavour and textural grip demand food. Tonkatsu for me.

Tengumai

In the Ishikawa prefecture in central Honshu, facing the Japan Sea. The Yamahai Jikomi Junmai ($49/720ml) is a powerful sake in the local style, full-bodied, complex and spicy, with a light yellow colour as a result of the Tengumai process (more than 12 months tank maturation). Their Junmai Daiginjo 50 ($59/720ml) is peppery and delicately citrusy to sniff, with trademark power and body.

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First published in Sydney Morning Herald, Good Food – 25 Nov 2014.

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