Kooyong Estate Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula 2012 $42 Value: very good
A very complex, Burgundy-style chardonnay with sulfide-tinged lees and ripe stone-fruit aromas. The palate is tight and elegant, refined and reserved but loaded with charm and detail at the same time. Fruit wins in the end. Great balance and length: a serious chardonnay. Now to five years. 13.5 per cent alcohol. 94/100 – Huon’s Wine 360
Food: marron grilled with garlic and butter
Stockists: Sixty Darling Fine Wines, Sydney; Boccaccio Cellars, Melbourne.