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Indulge Yourself

Kooyong Estate Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula 2012 $42 Value: very good

A very complex, Burgundy-style chardonnay with sulfide-tinged lees and ripe stone-fruit aromas. The palate is tight and elegant, refined and reserved but loaded with charm and detail at the same time. Fruit wins in the end. Great balance and length: a serious chardonnay. Now to five years. 13.5 per cent alcohol. 94/100 – Huon’s Wine 360

Food: marron grilled with garlic and butter

Stockists: Sixty Darling Fine Wines, Sydney; Boccaccio Cellars, Melbourne.

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