Louis Roederer Cristal, Champagne 2006 $365

A great vintage of a great champagne. The bouquet evokes dried herbs, meadow hay, wildflowers, bracken and heather. It’s fine, soft, balanced and clean in the mouth: a multi-faceted wine of tremendous power and intensity. It will age superbly, giving even more in future. Now to seven years. 12 per cent alcohol. 97/100 – Huon’s Wine 360

Food: raw and marinated fish dishes

Stockists: Camperdown Cellars, Sydney. Como Wine and Spirits, Melbourne.

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