Pinot Gris Parade


It’s almost heretical to admit, but I actually enjoy drinking good pinot gris.

I’ve uploaded 60 PGs – pinot gris and pinot grigio – this month, and I’m noticing some trends. The proportion of grigios in my PG tastings keeps increasing – exactly half the wines in this particular lot – as winemakers get the hint that wines labeled grigio sell better than those labeled gris. The Italians created the grigio market, and the Alsatians created the gris market, and keen observers of bottle-shop shelves will know there have always been more grigios than gris in the market. This may be partly because they’re cheaper. In keeping with this trend, there are more delicate, low-alcohol (around 12.5% instead of 14), pale-coloured wines, with fewer of the pink-tinged colours than in the past.

As I’ve said before, each time I do a PG tasting there are more wines that impress me, and fewer of the over-sweet, bland, watery ones. This time I really enjoyed Bellvale (tastings), Foxey’s Hangout (tasting) and Robert Channon (tasting), and I cannot recall a better Joseph d’Elena (tasting) than the 2013. Also Lethbridge (tasting) and Clyde Park (tasting), both from Geelong. Most wines are from the 2013 vintage, of course; however, from the 2012 vintage, Kooyong Beurrot (tasting), Moorilla Muse (tasting), Ten Minutes by Tractor 10X (tasting) and Spy Valley Envoy (tasting) are all excellent. These are more complex wines with an extra year of bottle-age. So don’t write PG off: try the good ones. 

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