Best fortified

Woodstock Very Old Fortified, McLaren Vale NV $65 / 500ml

The label says it’s at least 20 years old, and the tawny-brown colour with a yellow rim reveals considerable age. The bouquet is chocolaty and mellow; it’s full-bodied and very rich in the mouth with definite wood-aged character and great complexity. The aftertaste is long and not too sweet. Cellaring isn’t needed, but it will happily keep. 20 per cent alcohol. 94/100 (Huon’s Wine 360)

Food: chocolates; blue cheeses

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