Top Aussie white

Even Keel Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula 2011 $29

The colour is medium straw-yellow and the bouquet is slightly funky with smoky oak and a hint of sulfide. It’s delicate and restrained in the mouth, with refinement; the peach and grapefruit notes grow as it airs. A cool-year chardonnay of tension and finesse. Best now to four years. 12.7 per cent alcohol. 90/100 (Huon’s Wine 360)

Food: sautéed Balmain bug tails

Stockists: Best Cellars, The Oak Barrel, GPO Cheese and Wine Room

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