Best rose

Port Phillip Estate Salasso Rose, Mornington Peninsula 2012 $24

This is a serious rose, a wine of complexity and gravitas. The medium salmon-pink hue shows some early development and it has sweet plum and quince-jelly aromas. It’s savoury and full of interest: a far cry from the simple primary-fruit style of Aussie rose. Drink young. 13.5 per cent alcohol. 92/100 (Huon’s Wine 360)

Food: smoked salmon or gravlax

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