Wine of the week
De Bortoli Reserve Release EZ, Yarra Valley 2012 $36
This mixture of gewürztraminer, riesling and pinot gris is modeled on Alsace edelzwicker, which is a similar kind of blend. It’s another example of the creative energy that abounds in the De Bortoli Yarra Valley winery where chief winemaker Steve Webber holds court. Blending is a way to increase complexity in wine, and white winemakers should do more of it. This has lightly floral and spicy aromas, the pungency of gewurz toned-down and made more interesting by the other grapes. The palate is deep and full of flavour, yet light on its feet, with a touch of sweetness adding to its richness and textural appeal. The balance is very good and it has the sweetness needed to match with spicier Asian dishes. Probably best within two or three years. 12 per cent alcohol. 92/100
Food: Singapore chilli crab; Thai fish cakes with chilli sauce; mild fish curries.
Winery Rating: 94.7
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